April 30, 2008

Into Peru and the Colca Canyon

Sam and I's first stop in Peru was in Arequipa, launching point to climb the 5800m Volcano Misti and descend into the world's deepest canyons. Getting there was not easy. It was supposed to be a 11 hour bus ride from La Paz with no stops, no changing busses. Three busses and 15 hours later Sam and I had just about had it with misinformation and Peru, and were super bitter when we arrived in Peru. I don't know why they had to lie to us. We had already bought the tickets, we were already on their busses. Even in the middle on one of the bus rides we asked how long until the next town where Sam and I would transfer, and they told us 1 hour. It took 2. I mean seriously, what is the deal with just telling us straight up? I am on your bus. I'm not going anywhere. Just interested in how far away a place is. Thankfully with a good night's sleep and some cool Peruvians aquaintances the next day, we had revised our sour opinion of the night before. We made some plans for the week. With Sam's girlfriend flying into Lima soon, we had 6 days in Arequipa. We decided the best course of action would be two days hiking into the Colca Canyon, 2 days summiting 19,100 foot Volcan Misti, then 2 days summiting 19,900 foot Volcan Chachani. Would we survive? Probably not.

The Colca Canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world, second only to its nearby neighbor by about 150m, roughly 500 ft. Sam and I ventured into the Colca to explore its depths, spending two days trekking on its trails clinging tightly to the steep mountain sides. Condors soared in the air and sleepy little villages of mud and brick buildings perched themselves on the steep faces. Pre-Incan civilizations onced dwelled in this canyon, but the modern towns exist mainly for tourism nowadays. There was a pre-Incan terraced ampitheater used for crop experimentation, according to our guidebook, to Sam and I's disappointment. Plant experimentation? Why not epic gladiator battles, the terraces filled with shouting spectators? Nope. Let's see how tomatoes grow here and how tomatoes grow there. Lively bunch, those pre-Incans.

We spent the night in the canyon floor in a place called Oasis. Waterfalls fell out of the mountain side unexpectedly, not rivers draining from above, just a fountain of water out of the steep mountain face. Down by the river three campsites with cabins and turquois pools called our names as we stared from the dry, hot ridge above. Once we finally got down the pool was all I dreamed it would be. The campsite was full of tour groups, some who had paid around $190 for an all inclusive three day tour of the canyon and surrounding cities. Sam and I paid $10 to get to the canyon and back, $12 to get in because there is this stupid tourist ticket just to walk on the paths, and then$3 for a room that night. We saw more of the canyon for $25 than these tour groups did. Amazing what a tourist industry can do for you.

The climb up the next morning before the sun came up, making it a cool but steep and long hike out. With a couple days rest our legs would recover though...except that due to time constraints we were scheduled to climb a 19,100 foot peak the next day. Oh boy, we couldn't wait for that.

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