Last Words

So I am dying. Of what? I am slowly melting to death. No seriously. I am. I can feel it. My skin molecules are being slowly broken down, leaving a sticky feeling all over my body. Water comes out from inside my body and soaks my skin...I think maybe I am boiling inside. I drink about a gallon of ice cold water everyday to counter act the process, but it is no use. It is an uphill battle. It is just too hot. I am throwing in the towel. I don't know how much longer I will last. All I know is that I really, really want a snow cone.

A liitle more about Paraguay

My feet hate me. Absolutely hate me. They wouldn't even let me sleep last night. I kept waking up thinking my foot was on fire. Why? I spent the afternoon chilling Paraguyan style; ie, five hours of soccer with loud music, friends, and budweiser beer (most expensive in the country...go figure). I hadn't played in a serious game in about 3 months, and was using some cleats that were too small for my feet. I knew after an hour my feet wouldn't be nice to me the next day. But sitting there talking with the guys during a break under the pink clouds of an October sunset, with the techno remix of San Francisco (Be Sure to Wear Flowers in Your Hair...no seriously...be prepared) bumping in the background, I couldn't help but think that was the perfect day. I won't dwell on it further...I know the soccer posts are becoming redundant, but hey, I'm in South America! =)

Paraguay itself is a hectically balanced, peacefully chaotic conglomeration of both sides of the spectrum. In the countryside time stands so still you think the world might have stopped spinning, while in Ciudad del Este the street venders are busy trying to sell you the latest and greatest ripoff of some Chinese name brand. In Asunción beautiful colonial masterpieces and their million-dollar, modern counterparts are flanked by crumbling sidewalks and dirty, tired buildings. The city's wide open downtown plazas are matched by the cramped, overcrowed shanty towns that line the riverbanks. And it is incredibly hot. I have nothing to contrast that with. It is just freaking hot. Today when I left for school at just before 8:00 in the morning, it was 86 degrees. For my 20 block walk home at 12:00 it was 107, and the high for the day was 110. Like I said, it is just freaking hot. To counter the heat, Paraguayans have developed the highly addictive habit of sipping a cold tea called terere. You prepare it by placing the herb without a bag into a mug which has a filter at the bottom connected to a straw, and then continually poor ice cold water into the cup, using the same herb over and over, giving the water a mild taste that grows on you. Just about everyone walks around with a termo (thermus) and guampa (mug thing-a-ma-jig with a straw and filter thingy), and any time is terere time. It is even used in leu of water during soccer games. I think I might smuggle some back to the US. Unless of course I can mail it. Then I will just mail it.

I hope to get some pictures up soon. I am having some trouble uploading from this computer. Hope you all are doing great. Thanks for reading my blog!

Arriba Alvirroja

Boy did I set up this next post with the last one. This is called foreshadowing. I learned that in high school English (and that was about all I learned. And the word exacerbate...I'll try to use it in a sentence later). So anyway, speaking of soccer...the 17th of October was a great day in Paraguay; the national soccer team defeated their Uruguayan opponents 1-0 in a World Cup qualifying match at home in Asunción...and I was there! Man I love fútbol!!! (ie soccer, the real football, the football of the world, and yeah Evan, I said it. You might be bigger, stronger, tougher than me now, but I have the world backing me up. So step off! what!...alright dude, calm down, stop looking at the computer like that, your scaring me. I was only joking...*gulp*) And I didn't even know I would be going to this match when I wrote the last entry (so how well did I set up this post up with my last one? ehh? ehhhh?).

Ok, first some catching up, because I know I am bad at the whole informing you on what I do between stories. So I was at Foz for a while (they have waterfalls or something...I think I wrote a little something about it...) , then I went to a ranch (estancia) in Paraguay for a few days with some friends I had met in Foz. They are an awesome family (mucho amor para uds. mis amigos!), and I had an awesome time with them in Foz and on their ranch. After returning from the ranch to Foz for a couple days, I headed off to Asunción to study some of the español language. I am now staying with a family through the school, who live up to the Paraguayan stereotype of being super friendly and hospitable. It was through them that I got a ticket to the game. So there we go, all caught up.

So anyway, this was way cooler than my last soccer experience in South America. Last time I went to a pro-game in Brasil. This time I was at national soccer game in a country full of people who are crazy about soccer...especially when their team is trying to qualify for the World Cup. Once again however, I couldn't bring my oversized camera into the game without risking of being robbed, so I have zero pictures. They say pictures are worth a thousand words, I probably would have had at least five good ones, soooooooooo, I think four words (?) should do a good job of describing it? It was freakin' sweeeeeeeet!!!!

Outside the stadium the streets were flooded with colorful fans, not all of whom were going to the game. That is a big difference here. Everyone participates in the game, even if it is just wearing your jersey to the local market to share a beer with your buddies and cheer your team on while watching the TV out on the sidewalk. The streets are absolutely full of people wearing their national jerseys. This may greatly exacerbate the traffic situation (that one is for you Alicia ;-) ), but totally adds to the atmosphere in the city. Inside the stadium the fans were passionate, dressed up in their colors (red, white, and blue...easy to cheer for them), dancing, singing, jeering, and whistling (used to cheer, taunt, and boo). A latin beat rings out throughout the stadium from hidden drummers, and the singing does not stop the entire game. The whole country is in a pause to watch the Albirroja contend for their chance to compete for most coveted sports trophy in the world. The Albirroja is the affectionate nickname for their team, which is literally translated the "red stripes," and is pronounced with the super cool rolling r sound I can't seem to do for my life. That is ok...I can make the sound when the home team puts the ball in the back of the net...

GOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!

La Estancia, Paraguay

In the country side of eastern Paraguay sits a tranquil ranch-farm, or estancia, where cattle graze, soy beans grow, and time moves a little bit slower. The family estancia is home to a few hundred cattle and livestock, a handful of farm workers, and a different way of life. I spent 4 days there, and left wanting to stay behind.

I have to say one of the biggest privileges of this trip is the friends I have been able to make along the way. Not only am I getting to see some cool places, but I also am able to become a part of these people's lives, learning about their culture firsthand. This certain family who owns the ranch has been an awesome blessing in my life, and has shared with me, among other things, the estancia way of life.

There were a lot of firsts on the trip. I rode, galloped, and herded cattle on a horse for the first time. I saw the pursuit/capture of a pig (about a half hour excursion involving a lot of running and lasso tossing), the killing of the pig (intense!), the skinning/gutting/cutting of the pig (a really smelly biology class), and finally the hanging of the final pieces of meat of the pig (the process is definitely not for the faint of heart). The next day we ate the pig. It was delicious. And if you think that is gross, try watching the castration of bulls. That is a...painfully (for you and the bull) disgusting process. (And no, I am not kidding. I really saw this. It is a normal part of the cattle raising process. It allows the cows to gain more weight and make better meat. Most of the meat we eat is from a castrated male cow. Bon appétit.) I was able to see the ranch's land and country side, how work was done, and how people lived their daily lives. There was also a reserve for the Guarani indigenous people right next to the ranch, and some business interactions go on between the people and the surrounding ranches. I can't accurately convey the simplicity of these lifestyles, ranch or indigenous, and how different they are from everything I know. The ranchers live without many of the items I would consider basic for living, and in houses much, much simpler than any I would think of living in. You can easily imagine how the indigenous peoples live based on school and movies. What is interesting though is the cross of cultures. They still live in basic huts, but are clothed in modern clothing, and some have motorcycles parked outside their huts. It is a very interesting phenomenon.

One thing though that permeates even into the ranching lifestyle is the love of soccer, and we had a game with everybody one night out behind one of the houses. I love the soccer field. It is where an American with tennis shoes and 1 month old REI pants can come together with a Paraguayan rancher, playing barefoot and with ratty pants he has probably worn for over a year. Setting aside all the differences in culture, language, and wealth, everything revolves around the round ball in the middle of the pitch. And whether you are in a World Cup stadium with netted goals and thousands of fans, or on a little field in nowhere Paraguay with nailed wooden boards for goal posts, quick feet, an arcing cross, and a header goal is a beautiful thing.

And as you can see, I got my visa to Paraguay. Thanks for all the prayers! Hope all of you are doing well!

Iguassu Falls

Words don't get close, photos or videos don't do justice. This is one of the most spectacular places I have ever been...and I have only come when the water volume is the lowest! So take a tour below, and although it isn't like being there, the photos/videos are still breath taking. There are two sides to the falls, Brazilian and Argentinian. I did Argentina last time I was here, and a boat ride from Brazil, and did the Brazilian side this time. Here are some videos, and some pictures follow...

Iguassu Falls - Photo tour

The start:


















Cute furry animals that can be found stalking you or diving in dumpsters for food. They are about as common as squirrels, so basically I was that tourist taking pictures of squirrels.








































My friend Nati and I. Nati lives in Foz and helps me with my Spanish. Everyone so "hola Nati" =)






























Yeah, waterfalls...























The catwalks out to the falls...












There isn't really a hand signal for I am in one of the coolest places ever, so I guess a thumbs up will have to do.

Top 10 things I will miss from Brazil...

So since I am leaving Brazil soon to head off into Paraguay, I thought I would reminisce on my experience in Brazil, and figure out what I would miss most.

10. Portuguese - And I was just starting to get it.

9. Feijão e Arroz - I never knew I could be so hooked on rice and beans.

8. Music - Samba, Certaneja, Bossa Nova. I dig it.

7. Cool Slang - Legal, tudo tranquilo, xato...Brazilians have some sweet slang.

6. Coffee - Good (strong!) flavor, alotta kick, and you can have it with every meal of the day.

5. The Culture - After 3 months, I'm finally starting to adapt to it.

4. Buses - Local, national, or international, Brazil puts our bus systems and quality to shame. Usually wouldn't matter, but since buses are now my life, it is a big deal.

3. Guaraná - Most amazing soda ever created.

2. Churrascarias - The barbecue joints of the Brazil, serving up an endless supply of sizzling meats.

1. The People - My friends have been amazing, helping me with anything from bus tickets to language to info on where to go, introducing me to their friends, and sheltering me and feeding me. People you meet day to day are super nice, always willing to help you out, and are patient with your thick accent and sometimes unintelligible butchering of their language. They are interested about you and your culture, like telling you about theirs, and don't mind shooting the breeze immediately after exchanging names. When introduced by friends, you are immediately welcomed as one as well, and the same goes for family. The good news is that while staying here in the border town of Foz, I have met a lot of Paraguayans, and the same can be said for them.

Video Diary #1

Things you can count on...

Throughout my travels here in Brazil, I have learned that there are some things about this culture that occur as sure as the sun rising in the East. One, their coffee is strong, delicious, and you will find it anywhere, anytime. Two, beans and rice are served at lunch, and it is de-lish-ous. Three, the second someone finds out you are American, you will be asked your opinion on The Man, O Presidente, Mr. George W. Bush.

As some of you may know, Latin Americans are unafraid to bring up the subject of politics, domestic or foreign. And everyone wants to know what you think about Bush. They already have their opinion, and quite possibly have talked about the subject more amongst themselves than you have in the States. I think maybe they are trying to find someone who likes him. I am pretty sure most American travelers who like Bush (anyone?) have learned to say the opposite, simply to avoid having to defend such a position. I have met one Latin American who said he respects Bush because he doesn't tolerate dictators. He then had about 5 family members heckling him and giving him their own opinions. Politics is interesting in Latin America with such turbulent and colored histories. Someone told me the other day Brazil has 27 political parties. 27! I think it sucks to have to choose between two, but 27!? That might be worse. In any event, politics is a hot subject down here, but at the end of the discussion, Latin Americans know how to be family or friends despite differences of opinion. So if any of you are planning on traveling at all in Lating America, study up on the language, bring a camera, and be prepared to share your opinion on the man in the big white house.