Possible. Just did it. How? I have absolutely no idea! But such it is. I suppose it would be incorrect to call this trek “better,” but I did enjoy the Huayhuash circuit more, however, than any treks so far in the Blanca. A huge contributing factor was the weather. For every cloudy day, obscured mountain, or snowy day I had in the Cordillera Blanca, I was more than paid back with the clearest of clear skies in Huayhuash. For 6 days straight. That provided for some mind blowing panoramic scenery of another spectacular mountain range in Northern Peru.
I won’t do another day to day account on where I went on the trail
and such. You all just had 12 days of that, plus I don’t want to write it. I will give you the basics, and any anecdotes worth being shared. I went solo for 8 days, doing the basic circuit most days, but cutting across some more difficult passes other days to catch some better views and get away from the crowds. The views were the best part of all, so here are the picture links:PHOTOS DAYS 1-3 (45)
PHOTOS DAYS 4-5 (54)
PHOTOS DAYS 6-8 (44)
Overall stats of trek (distances pretty roughly calced):
21,700 vertical feet up, 18,800 feet down, 66.7 miles, all over 8 days. For comparison, the last trek was 23,950 ft up, basically equal down, 99.5 miles, but over 12 days. Translates to the Huayhuash Circuit (that I did) having an average of 2,710 ft up/down over 8.3 mi per day, while the Alpamayo Circuit was 2,000 ft up/ down over 8.3 mi per day. So Huayhuas was a bit tougher.
Huayhuash vs. Blanca
The Cordillera Huayhuash is very much more remote than the Cordillera Blanca. Tour groups are frequently doing the main circuit route just as with the main treks in the Blanca, but even so, in the Blanca you are usually no more than a day’s hike from a city with major transportation options to civilization. This just isn’t the case in Huayhuash, adding both risk and adventure to the mountain range.
Blanca is a National Park, while the Huayhuash takes the title of National Reserve. Both are mismanaged, poorly budgeted operations of which serious problems are visible, but the Blanca has an official governing body whereas Huayhuash is, well, locally managed I suppose is an appropriate term. What that means is that funds intended for the Park or Reserve mostly go to greedy officials or local communities, respectively (not all those involved in management of either area are the greedy official type. Some care deeply about both places and are trying to make a difference. However, the former type seems to dominate the way the system works). Blanca has an official park body which you pay; in Huayhuash you pay local community associations. Both are supposedly responsible for maintenance, infrastructure, security, and sanitary services. Both fail at their responsibilities, that is, except for the dutiful collection of your money. Now I don’t mind paying to enjoy places such as these, especially since I believe strongly in the protection and responsible management of these areas for the greater common good (i.e. I believe society benefits more from the protection and preservation of its natural treasures than from drilling oil from them or deforesting trees for lumber). But I begrudge a system in which I pay for the utter mismanagement and ultimate harm of these areas.
Regarding maintenance and infrastructure in Huayhuash, trails are generally decent, but major erosion problems due to poorly created trails exist, multiple trails cut through delicate habitats, as well as other intricacies. The only signs you see are ones welcoming you to such and such community/control, “we wish you a pleasant stay and happy journey,” which is just another way of saying, “We will be requiring some of your money to pay for our mismanagement of the area and for our pretty sign.” Regarding security, I don’t know what they really do. No one checks guide’s ID to see if they should be guiding, if you have permit or anything allowing you to be in the area. But somehow it is provided, because they tell you it is. Finally, regarding sanitation (worst managed area), trash is usually strewn across common campsites and is found along trails to a disturbing degree. Hikers, tour groups, and arrieros are not held accountable to such irresponsibility, and nothing is done to actually pick up and remove the trash from its wind strewn locations in fields, lakes, rivers, or wherever. Some campsites provide a common toilette, other pit toilettes are set up by tour groups, although sometimes you will find them all of 50 feet from a lake or water source. Apparently seepage is not a term familiar to their makers.
I think the biggest problem though is just the lack of the accountability. Communities report to no one but themselves, so if they just want tourist’s money and don’t want to clean up after them, who is to say otherwise? Some tour groups have enough influence and strength in numbers to refuse to pay until a sight is cleaned up, but then it is from these same groups I have seen their donkey groups head off and leave behind all sorts of trash, from plastic to toilette paper to uneaten food. Along the road arrieros drop plastic from food, reflecting the general attitude held by most Latin Americans in general about litter. So while guides of a group may insist in cleaning up an area, it is more of a show for their clients and in the interest of business than it is a genuine concern for the environment and care of the area. It is a sad reality of the situation down here, and I hope responsible tourism and effective management will one day overcome these problems. Tirade finished.
Despite these problems, Huayhuash holds absolutely stunning natural beauty. Combined with its remoteness and the ability to get off the beaten path, it has thus far been my favorite trek.
Day 1
Ascent: 3,300 ft
Descent: 820 ft
Distance: 6 mi
Up at 3:30 in the morning, I was departing Huaraz by 5:00 am, arriving in Chiquian at 8:00, departing at 9:15, arriving in Llámac at 10:45, and finally on the trail at 11:00. That sequence sucked. Camp for the night was Laguna Jahuacocha, whose west end was a circus of tour groups with their tents and donkeys. I camped on the east end, falling asleep the roar of glacial ice fall. A
beautiful sight and sound to behold, it was also a reminder of the dramatic retreat of glaciers in the region. Whole mountains have been melted out, baring nothing but rock when 50 years ago, they were completely covered in ice and snow.Day 2
Ascent: 2,300 ft
Descent: 1,800 ftDistance: 8.5 mi
A steep climb up to Punta Rondoy gave some spectacular views of the north-western faces of several peaks. Camp lay at the end of the canyon beneath the next day’s pass.
Day 3
Ascent: 2,150 ft
Descent: 1,800 ft
Distance: 6.5
An easy day overall with camp at Laguna Mitococha, nestled under the same peaks that were camped under on day 1, but on their eastern side.
Roughin’ It
I got my first real observation of trekking tours at their 5-star-finest. Arrieros arrive early and set up their client’s tent, the food tent (complete with tables and chairs), and a pit toilette. Food, blankets, even live chickens appeared from the bags and boxes strapped to the donkeys. The cooks (separate from the arrieros) prepared the mid-afternoon snack in anticipation of the client’s arrival, and water bins were set aside to warm so the clients could have a nice wash at the end of their very hard, strenuous day (which took me 3 ½ hours to do carrying my own pack). In the morning, breakfast was prepared before the clients were up, avoiding any wait in the cold to eat. After the clients set off to walk, the arrieros broke down all their tents, packed up all the equipment, and set off for to the next location to do it all over. I tell you, those tour agencies sure do give you a “real trekking experience!” Not all groups are like this, some are very self sufficient. This group next to me just happened to be packing a five star hotel in the bags atop their donkeys.
To be continued...
No comments:
Post a Comment